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Considering a 383 -- suggestions
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Post Considering a 383 -- suggestions 
I've pulled the engine on my 98 tahoe for a rebuild and am considering putting in an Eagle stroker assembly while I've got it torn down. I'd like to get numbers similar to the HT383 label. Nothing radical. My understanding was that the top end should be good for what I want. I've found a few threads here that make me think I may be getting in too deep. Chevy claims that if you dump in the HT383 the computer will "learn and adapt" to the swap. I'm really looking for pulling torque around that 2-3000 rpm range. I'm planning on the dish pistons (9.9:1 comp) and external balanced.

I'm a vet student on a budget so I want to build a good base that can be updated later when I've got more cash (marine intake setup is sounding good but I also like the ramjet from GM). I've rebuilt about a million Evinrude outboards but this is my solo build on a late mode so I want to make sure I'm not getting myself in too deep. Any help, suggestions, pointers or giant flashing red lights would be greatly appreciated.

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I'd say that since you want something reliable and a relatively quick swap (vet school takes a lot of study time) I'd go with the HT383e (there is a difference, and you need the "e") It will bolt right up and all you will need to do is swap your accy's and intake. The time you take to get the block ready for the stroker crank and other "stuff" as well as cost, I have to believe your money ahead with the long block from GM. I believe 350SS is selling a used HT383e with only about 2,000 miles on it for $3400 or so. A fantastic deal I must say. I’m planning on doing the same thing this fall, I already have the marine intake and 0411 computer. I will most definitely go with the HT383e.

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350SS has a HT383e for sale and I have to correct my earlier post - I had the price wrong - he wants $3,600. Still one helluva a deal...

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I actually just had my motor rebuilt .020 over and had a comp cam installed. Im making about 340hp, the motor cost me about $2K, plus I also had to get the computer dyno tuned for it to run right and good. I only got about 306hp with stock exhaust, but i replaced the exhaust with gibson headers into 2.5" pipes and a magnaflow (x-pipe) muffler and found the 34 extra ponies.

But i have heard lots of good things about the HT383e as well, it just depends on what ur budget is and how much power you want. If you have any more questions about my build just hit me up.

Good luck

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If I had the opportunity and I knew then what I know now I would have gone with the HT383e instead of the stock crate.

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I would go with the eagle stroker kit it's worth the money ( the recent EngineMasters winner used that bottom end )
Personally I'm a big fan of some of the GMPP roller cams 24502586- LT4 Hot Cam or 12370846- ZZ383 Cam
both have a 112 deg. LSA witch makes them good for Fuel Injected apps. Basically the ZZ383 cam is a dual pattern
version of the Hot cam witch makes it good for boosted apps or heads with a week exhaust port. I'm kinda spoiled
tho I normally just call up ISKY and have them grind me something good.
If the heads are good send them to the machine shop. Both of my heads were cracked one was leaking water
into Cyl 5. So I tossed them. I'm looking forward to building a 383 short block and I think I will get the Fast Burn heads.
In any event the ECM SHOULD be re tuned. The only way they get away with letting the computer "learn" is that
the MAF sensor will adjust the VE table.

-Justin

also I would go with the RamJet intake as long as you don't have any state or local SMOG requirements or care
about the environment. My main problem with the marine manifold is that it's cast iron. I just can't see going
from Composite/Aluminum to Aluminum/Cast Iron. I don't think anyone on here has weighed both whole
manifolds ? ?

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Not only should you check you heads, but with the cam you going with you should re-do them screw in studs and guides and use heavier springs, your stockers arn't gonig to cut it.

Randall

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Post Its alive 
After pricing everything out and talking with my machine shop I went with a rebuild of my block. Had them go 20 over on the cylinders and put in new camshaft bearings then I rebuilt it with speed pro 11cc dish pistons, scat rods, eagle 383 crank, dart vortec style heads with "Z28" spings. and the same cam as is in the ht383e. I'm sticking with stamped rockers mainly for reliability, longevity, and price until I can afford some good stainless roller rockers. Dropped in the distributor last night and fired it up. Haven't really worked it too hard yet but it feels pretty stout on the low end. Spent about 2300 total building it myself including parts, labor, and misc like new pulleys, oil pump, and motor mounts - everything is new except the intake/injectors and oil pan.

I've run it up to temperature and WOT for a couple of seconds on the highway and haven't gotten any error codes so I assume I've got the distributor in the right grove. If anybody knows differently let me know please. (Don't have a timing light right now)

Anybody know for sure where I want my timing set? I'm going to have a case relearn done at the GM dealer this week ($29) and they'll adjust the timing if I I know where I want it. I'm guessing since I'm running 9.7 compression I don't need to take any timing out, but I don't even know where that should be...... 2 deg BTDC ?

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mcbride wrote:
After pricing everything out and talking with my machine shop I went with a rebuild of my block. Had them go 20 over on the cylinders and put in new camshaft bearings then I rebuilt it with speed pro 11cc dish pistons, scat rods, eagle 383 crank, dart vortec style heads with "Z28" spings. and the same cam as is in the ht383e. I'm sticking with stamped rockers mainly for reliability, longevity, and price until I can afford some good stainless roller rockers. Dropped in the distributor last night and fired it up. Haven't really worked it too hard yet but it feels pretty stout on the low end. Spent about 2300 total building it myself including parts, labor, and misc like new pulleys, oil pump, and motor mounts - everything is new except the intake/injectors and oil pan.

I've run it up to temperature and WOT for a couple of seconds on the highway and haven't gotten any error codes so I assume I've got the distributor in the right grove. If anybody knows differently let me know please. (Don't have a timing light right now)

Anybody know for sure where I want my timing set? I'm going to have a case relearn done at the GM dealer this week ($29) and they'll adjust the timing if I I know where I want it. I'm guessing since I'm running 9.7 compression I don't need to take any timing out, but I don't even know where that should be...... 2 deg BTDC ?


if you are getting a relearn, just have the dealer time it like stock - or what the ht383 is since thats the cam you are running. if you have no codes, sounds like your close. the computer is what really factors in your timing - thats why you cant actually play with the distributor too much before setting codes.
remember, dont break it in too gentle Laughing

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The timing is set by the computer (Spark Map) the dist only needs to be adjusted so that the cam sensor
is in the right location and so that the spark jumps to the correct terminal.

DAMN I didn't think the dealer would say hello for $29 bux ???

P sout
-Justin

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Nice work! That's one of the fastest builds I've heard of before. My machinist took more than a year to get a 383 built for me.

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Same here, it took my engine builder 6 months before he could even touch it. I guess its because it was during his busy racing season.

Josh

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It got done fast because I didn't let them build it just do the machining and milling/pressing. I rebuild evinrude and johnson outboards to put myself through college. I've put one or two together before. I'll keep posting as I get it dialed in. I appreciate all the help and info from everyone.

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mcbride wrote:
After pricing everything out and talking with my machine shop I went with a rebuild of my block. Had them go 20 over on the cylinders and put in new camshaft bearings then I rebuilt it with speed pro 11cc dish pistons, scat rods, eagle 383 crank, dart vortec style heads with "Z28" spings. and the same cam as is in the ht383e. Dropped in the distributor last night and fired it up ?



If you have a new camshaft "ht383e" and a used stock distributor gear in the distributor YOU NEED to replace the gear with an updated melonized gear kit for these distributors or the cam gear will eat it or lunch.... been there... done that and the part is less than the tow bill. I got 150 miles on my engine before the zz4 cam ate off my distributor gear for brunch and there was a immediate show stopping ballz dropping to the floor kind of feeling during the burnout I was doing.

hope it all works well for ya
Robby

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Thanks for the tip on the distributor gear. Did a quick bit of searching and found a gear. Truck is parked until in comes in on Tuesday. Saved me some serious headaches.

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I have never replaced the dist. gear when I swapped cams, or engines. I am currently using the original dist. and gear in my setup, and have been doing so succesfully for over four years.

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Vortec Stroker wrote:
I have never replaced the dist. gear when I swapped cams, or engines. I am currently using the original dist. and gear in my setup, and have been doing so succesfully for over four years.


Your truck is a freak of nature! Anybody elses would have crapped out by now.

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I still dont understand the need to? What is the difference between the cam gear in the stock GM cam in our L31's, and the cam gear in the GM LT4 Hotcam that I am using right now?

I should also note that I spin my 383 to at least 5K almost every time I drive it. Although my company truck is a Duramax, I still have withdrawls. So it gets beat on pretty bad.

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I think james said one reason was due to not much oil getting to the gear to oil it. But when you put in a new camshaft that has a "NEW" gear on it and then use a "USED" already worn in pattern on a distributor gear, both gears have to re- break in and get a new wear pattern and I guess it just depends on how much meat was left on your distributor gear for this to last. I do know that when the distributor gear gets worn, you get misfire codes and a cam sensor code from what I remember.
Robby

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