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95 GMC
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I put the hood on myself, noticed the alignment was really bad. looked at the hinges, both of them were bent. so I replaced them with the two that was with the different hood. I got the alignment as close as I could get it. Still cannot up load pictures because photo bucket is having issues. I ordered a new wiper arm and a plastic piece that covers the hood mount. I will have to look up the name of the part. The original was broken after the hood popped open on my 97. The wiper arm also was bent after the hood popped open. I was lucky no other damage took place when that happened.

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I changed the spring, ended up after putting the better hood in place, I had to change the hood mounts too, because they were bent.


This is the spring that was on the truck when the hood hit the cab. I replaced them.


The damaged hood.


The hood that came off the 95 1 ton.



Last edited by Chevy 97 on Sun Dec 29, 2019 7:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post 2000 Chevy Crew Cab Short Box. 3/4 Ton 454 


The 454 has a bad knock, in fact it actually quit on me when I was unloading the truck off the trailer. I will be taking apart the front end of the truck to pull the engine. I may need two better fenders too. Rusted bad by the bottom bolt. Looking forward to seeing what actually went wrong. This truck already has shorty headers on it. the third owner had a new exhaust put on, only a 2 1/2 inch tailpipe. I have that size in dual exhaust on my half ton. I would also like long tube headers. The transmission was good, The rearend was rebuild.
I eventually want to put the dually rearend in place. then change the front hub assembly to make it look like a 1 ton.

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Damn I love crew cab short box GMT 400 trucks

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Chevy has always choked off the exhaust on their big blocks. The 450 horse 454 Chevelle had 2.25 inch duals. A smaller exhaust has higher velocity, which does a better scavenging job on the cylinder, but too small and you choke the engine. It's a fine line getting the correct balance of scavenging vs choking. Too large an exhaust is also bad, you lose scavenging which costs a lot of power. I've tried 3 inch duals on a 350, and just putting 2.5 inch pipes after the mufflers on that system boosted engine power.

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Speeder wrote:
Chevy has always choked off the exhaust on their big blocks. The 450 horse 454 Chevelle had 2.25 inch duals. A smaller exhaust has higher velocity, which does a better scavenging job on the cylinder, but too small and you choke the engine. It's a fine line getting the correct balance of scavenging vs choking. Too large an exhaust is also bad, you lose scavenging which costs a lot of power. I've tried 3 inch duals on a 350, and just putting 2.5 inch pipes after the mufflers on that system boosted engine power.



I would like 3 inch all the way out the back. But for now, may just leave it alone. The interior is a bit rough now too. It was used out in the oil field, Rod kept it very clean. Not sure about the last two owners. This is one of the trucks my wife would not let me buy after I hit the deer. Worried about the engine. I could have swapped the 383 in it if needed. Now to make one 454 out of two. With some new parts of course. Like the cam shaft. I hope the block is still good. I really do not want to try and use the gen 5 block.

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I did not realize that the 454, has a different set up for the fan then the vortec 350.



Already has shorty headers.



I new the 454 is a beast, did not realize how much difference there is in the 454 to the 383.



This is my 97, a lot more room with the 383.

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Post 2000 CCSB 454 


Finally got time to start removing pieces to get the engine out.

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After removing the radiator, I noticed how dirty this is. Just like my 97 when I replaced the engine.



I could not figure out how undo the clip to remove the hose. After I broke it then I saw how it came apart.



I checked with my local GM dealer, this line is now obsolete.



I had to laugh when I saw this wire not properly connected together. There are some wires I can get rid of.




I remove the brush guard, bumper, and the grill.




I removed the auxiliary fan, I carefully removed the wiring harness.





One of the a/c lines did not want to break loose. So I heated it up a few times, then sprayed it with WD 40, this morning it came loose.
The Auxiliary fan was toast, the fan blade wobbled to bad.

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The trash in the radiator, that's something of a design flaw but I don't know how to fix it. My mother used to have a 93 model that would get clogged with chicken feathers every other year, to the point that the truck would start overheating. We'd have to pull it to clean it out. Where she lives is on one of Tyson's main travel roads, and chicken trucks are up and down that road all the time. Her 2001 that I just restored, when I pulled the radiator it was clean in there and she hadn't had the radiator out for the 5ish years she had it. Same house, same chicken trucks.

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I tried to up load the video, not sure why it was not doing so. unless it was just too big in pixels. The pixels when I resize then are around 4,000 x 2,000 sum, I reduce it to 550 x 239 so it will be smaller to put on these posts without being so huge. The auxiliary fan is shot, it is very loose.



I picked this up at the wreckers yesterday. I went in the day before, to get it, but the pcm was still in the truck, so I just had them cut the wires and save me the 80 pin connectors. I still have some pins from the last pcm swap. other wise it would be around another $100 extra to order the connectors and have then sent across the border.

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Speeder wrote:
The trash in the radiator, that's something of a design flaw but I don't know how to fix it. My mother used to have a 93 model that would get clogged with chicken feathers every other year, to the point that the truck would start overheating. We'd have to pull it to clean it out. Where she lives is on one of Tyson's main travel roads, and chicken trucks are up and down that road all the time. Her 2001 that I just restored, when I pulled the radiator it was clean in there and she hadn't had the radiator out for the 5ish years she had it. Same house, same chicken trucks.



I am thankful I do not live on a gravel road, but when trucks hauling silage or straw, I tend to collect that in between the condenser and the radiator. I cannot believe it has been five years since I swapped the 383 into the blue truck, this is the 3rd year since I did the transmission. I noticed on LMC truck now some of the things that were available for these trucks in 2015, you can no longer get. My truck is now 23 years old and the newest one is 20 years old. The vehicles I liked as a kid are now 50 years or older.

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The left side inner and outer fender is off.



Rusted out.



Same fender. Left side.




Inner and outer fenders are off, the right side.




Inner fender is getting bad. Left side.



Yep rusted out. Left side.



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Wow, are you going to try to fix those panels or replace them?

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97k15004wd wrote:
Wow, are you going to try to fix those panels or replace them?


Going to replace then. I need one inner fender, going to see if I can find some good used fenders if not will have to get new. These are too bad. The truck needs rocker panels too.

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Quick question concerning camshafts and computer compatible, I found a cam that I would like to have for the engine, but when you look at the specs it says not computer compatible. Do you need to use a camshaft that is computer compatible?

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Everything came off easy. which I am glad, the other truck, I had issues with the a/c line at the firewall. I only had one that give me some grief That was at the condenser.

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This engine seems to have an aluminum front cover. to run the 24 x all I need is the 24x gear for the crank sensor, and use the distributor as the 1x cam sensor, then get 8 coils and a set of wires. Of course read up on how to convert to the 24x. I am sure there is some wiring changes that need to take place. One I get the engine and transmission out. I will have to see if I can rotate the engine. I need to get the converter bolts off before putting the engine onto the stand. I just do not like where the distributor is with the upper intake. It is so close and the A/C line goes over the top. This way I will not have to change cap and rotor.

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Chevy 97 wrote:
Quick question concerning camshafts and computer compatible, I found a cam that I would like to have for the engine, but when you look at the specs it says not computer compatible. Do you need to use a camshaft that is computer compatible?


I'm not sure what that means. I believe you can tune any pcm to a cam, as long as the values are able to be put in the tables. Also, depends on the fuel rates of the injectors and the timing. Anybody else?

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